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HEART OF THE SHAMAN At night, Machu Picchu slips outside of time. When the tour-
ists leave, the numinous dwellers of the city of light roam the
citadel. With the help of visionary plant medicine like the San
Pedro, you understand the place is inhabited. Our visit coin-
...continued from page 27... cided with the waning moon and by that dim light we made
our way to the main temple, a courtyard with three large
windows on one side and no roof. As soon as we arrived, Roshi
came to me trembling, even though the night was warm.

A year later, Roshi accompanied me on one of my expeditions “This place is full of spirits,” he said. “Look at the one
to Machu Picchu. I was friends with the chief archaeologist, so over there, with the chest-plate, and the four spear-carry-
we had access to the citadel at night, when no tourists were ing guards to either side of him.”
there. We were accompanied by a shaman who worked with
the San Pedro cactus, and who offered his visionary brew to us I turned to see Don Manuel, the old shaman, engaged with the
to drink. one who had the golden disk on his chest. Over the years, I had
become familiar with the invisible residents of Machu Picchu
We were also with Don Manuel Quispe, one of the great An- and saw them as friends who welcomed us. But it was Roshi’s
dean shamans. I had discovered him in a 1962 National Geo- first encounter with them, and I could not help myself.
graphic magazine article in which he was interviewed as part
of a feature on Inka villages at 16,000 feet altitude. He was “We do not pay attention to phenomena in shamanism,” I
one of the last known readers of the quipu, a quipu-camayok. said, barely able to contain a laugh. “They are just a distrac-
And he remembered the stories of when time was young, of tion along the path."
when the children of the light first came from Lake Titicaca,
the sea on top of the world—and he became a mentor to me.

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